Kahramanmaras: A Tale of Many Cities

I imagine that some of you out there have heard of Kahramanmaraş (especially in relation to Maraş dondurması), but I'm sure very few of you have ever been.  Maraş is not a tourist destination, and I think the locals like it that way.  Maraş is located in between two regions of Turkey - the Mediterranean region and Southeastern Turkey. 

Photo from allaboutturkey.com

Which region does it truly belong to?

The different regions of Maras, and location of the Maras municipality within Turkey
Photo from Wikipedia

I've been told this is a popular question on Turkish game shows - so I'll give you the official answer - it's the Mediterranean Region.  However, I'm sure an anthropologist could argue that culturally Maraş is more like Southeastern Turkey than the coastal towns along the sparkling blue Sea. 

Maraş has a long history that dates back over 4000 years to the Hittites, when the city was named "Maraj" after a Hittite commander.  The city was known as Gurgum during the reign of Sargon, an Assyrian king.  The Romans called it Germanicia and the Byzantines followed suit.  Then, when claimed by the Arabs it went back to the original name, which in Arabic was "Mer'ash".  The Seljuks and the Zülkadiroğullari also lived in this area before the Ottomans finally became the keepers of the land.   As a city on both the Silk Road and the Spice Road, many feet from many cultures have worn a path through Maraş and most likely shaped some aspects of the culture that remains today. (Information from the Tourism Guide of  Kahramanmaraş)

In the early and late 1900's Maraş became the focus of several important modern historical moments, and depending on your viewpoint, "it was the best of times, it was the worst of times…it was the season of Light, it was the season of Darkness, it was the spring of hope, it was the winter of despair…"

In the winter of 1920, the first major battle of the Turkish War of Independence took place in Maraş  which forced the French to retreat and astonished the Allied forces.  This was an important turning point for Turkish independence, and in 1973, the city of Maraş was transformed to  Kahramanmaraş by the Grand National Assembly of Turkey, ("Kahraman" meaning hero)  to commemorate the victory against the French in the Turkish War of Independence. 

The statue near a main road entering the city that proudly displays the award given to Maras to commemorate the battle won during the Turkish War of Independence.
(Photo from http://www.hocam.com)

However, it wasn't all joy and celebration for everyone, as many Armenians that were living as refugees in Maraş were caught and targeted in the crossfire of this battle, and retreated with the French to suffer a long, cold march that ultimately took many more lives.

Then in 1978,  Kahramanmaraş fell into the spotlight with a dark deed - the massacre of leftist Alevis, that left 105 dead.  We were actually in Maraş this winter during the anniversary of this day.  The news portrayed peaceful meetings and reconciliation of the Sunni majority and Alevi minority, which are still present in Maraş. 

There is obviously much more to these time periods and to these historical events - but that's 4000 years of history summed up into a couple paragraphs.  I barely scratched the surface with these tidbits of history.  However, the events of the last century are the ones that I had heard about specifically, and now I'm fact checking on Wikipedia (I probably should find a more reliable source).  Yet, from what I can tell, they have played an important role in the way the Maraş people view themselves, and also how the rest of Turkey thinks of this growing city of now over 400,000 people. 

Even though I have now spent a total of 5-6 weeks in Maraş, I can say that I do not yet really "know" Maraş.  We have not explored all the historical and natural sites that would typically attract the tourists.  With these overlapping layers of history, it seems that they are still unearthing old mosaics and ancient buildings that were painted and built over in time.  You can learn more about this at the Maraş Archaeological Museum (where we happen to know the mosaic expert in residence :-) ).

Instead of exploring, our trips have been spent with family, which has introduced me to an entirely different Turkey and a wide array of modern and traditional Turkish customs. 

Yet, little by little, we have sampled some of the best spots to enjoy a nice tea, a sampling of sweet and savory pastries, a sizzling köfte, and a traditional Ottoman-style meal. 

The best place to enjoy tea - from the Teras Restaurant on top of one of the many mountains surrounding the city. They have many outdoor tables and areas to sit and enjoy a tea.

Inside the Teras restaurant you can still watch the city below out of the large windows that cover an entire wall of the building.  In summer they open them for a nice, fresh breeze.  The prices aren't bad either!

Mezes at Turaç Ocakbaşı- a restaurant in an old-restored Ottoman-style home complete with copper plates, cups, an old Ottoman stove, and antique decor.

The main dish of mixed grilled meats at Turaç - grilled over charcoal - yummy. 

 We've toured the local bazaar, where one can enjoy the beautiful creations from the famous coppersmiths of Maraş  or be dazzled by the blinding yellow light reflecting from the many gold shops.  We've enjoyed nargile and tea at the top of the Maraş castle.  We've tasted the local salep and enjoyed many, many scoops of the local ice cream- the best in Turkey.

The Maraş market - dried eggplants and peppers, sheepskin and floral dresses. 

A local Maraş coppersmith, sadly a dying tradition
From HakanIrfan's Flickr

The BEST Ice Cream in the World!  More to come about Mado in the next post. 

We've also hit up the city center, where you can find just about anything you need in all the modern stores and also enjoy traditional Turkish fare and décor at the original Mado restaurant. 

So I guess we have done a lot.  Yet, when I look at the Maraş Tourism Guide Book that I was given, I realize we haven't even begun to explore the Maraş region and all that it has to offer.  While watching all the beautiful winter sunsets I pondered what was beyond the city and I watched the sprinkling of lights come on in the mountains realizing that there are surely many beautiful things hidden in those folded hills, and maybe, just maybe, one day I'll get to see them.

The not so distant mountains of Maras - hoping one day I'll get to hike to the top. 

*More to come about Mado in the next post!*

To get to the Teras restaurant - you can use this location in google maps (37.60142861058348,36.912736031804016) - it will take you up a steep hill past a large forest and up to the top of the mountain/hill where the restaurant is located.  

The Turaç Ocakbaşı restaurant is located at Sait Zarifoğlu Bul. Dumlupınar Mahallesi, Orman Caddesi No:101

Phone number: 0344.214.14.83

Better yet - ask your hotel, local host or taxi driver to take you there.  It is near the city center and should be well known.

Detour to Castles, Caves and Cool Mediterranean Waters

Today is probably one of the coldest days of the year so far in this Midwest state full of manic weather.  Currently it's 14 degrees Fahrenheit (that's  -10 in Celsius) and 2 degrees F with the windchill - brrrr!  So with my wool hat and gloves still on in my chilly, old apartment -  I'm dreaming of warmer days.  In fact, earlier today I found myself flipping through pictures from my first trip to Turkey in the early summer of 2011. So I couldn't help but take a short detour from my planned posts and instead, I took a warm trip down memory lane to the region of Mersin, a lovely spot on the Mediterranean Sea.  

On our short trip to Turkey in 2011, we decided that we had to get a taste of the salty Mediterranean air and see the various shades of blue of that great Sea.  From Maraş we drove down through Adana to visit a professor from H.'s college days and then we continued on through Mersin and into the surrounding coastside full of small resorts, swimming holes, caves, and of course, scattered with historical monuments.

The crystal water is calling to me - even though it was freezing cold at the time.
The blue gives the allusion of warmth doesn't it?

We spent several hours swimming in the aquamarine waters and sunbathing on the rocks at a local swimming spot.  Next, we drove back in the direction of Mersin to stop where the ancient city of Koryos once stood and where the Kız Kalesi, or Maiden's Castle, now remains. 

Several crumbling parts of the land castle.

 Koryos dates back to the Hellenistic period in the 2nd century BC.  During the reign of the Byzantine empire in the 12th century, both the land and the Maiden Castle were constructed.  The legend of the Kız Kalesi is strikingly similar to that of the Kız Kulesi in Istanbul (kule = tower; kale = fortress or castle), in fact, the stories are exactly the same.  A king hears from a fortune teller that his daughter will be poisoned by a snake.  In an attempt to sidestep fate, he has servants build a castle on an island and he keeps his daughter there.  Only, one day, a snake makes it into a grape basket that is brought to the castle and the daughter is bitten and dies.  (I'm wondering - is this just a favorite legend to accompany buildings built in the sea or what is the historical reality of these matching stories?)

The Kız Kalesi in the background, as seen through a window in the land castle.

 The Kız Kalesi and remains of Koryos are perfect examples of overlapping cultures, a common phenomenon in Turkey.  The stones of the castle are said to come from buildings of the Roman period and the area is full of historical hot spots, such as a local Roman temple, necropolis, church and cistern.  Right across from the castle there are exposed stones with distinct figures etched into the mammoth rock.  I'm not sure what culture or time period these figures belong to, but there they are nonetheless.  Another example of how you can't walk down a path in Turkey without stumbling over an ancient artifact.

A view of the coast and local village from the top of the castle wall.

If you head straight up the hill from the castle you will find some of the remains of the Roman buildings and another natural and human spectacle, fittingly called by the locals, "Heaven and Hell", and on the tourist brochure, "Heaven Hollow", or in Turkish, Cennet Obruğu.  To access "Heaven" you must follow 455 steps down a steep incline.   

Just the beginning of the 455 steps.

The mouth of this hollow is 200m wide and the deepest point is 70m below ground - so don't wander too far without a flashlight!

Halfway down the steep pathway we stopped to explore the Virgin Mary Chapel, a small stone chapel dating to the 5th or 6th century AD.  The chapel is supposedly decorated with frescoes of Jesus and his 12 apostles, but all I could see were the etchings of many travelers before me that had felt the need to leave their mark in stone. 

Photo op inside the Virgin Mary Chapel, clouded with graffiti on the chapel walls.
(Photo copyright of hakanirfan @ flickriver.com/photos/hakanirfan)

 Past the chapel it's straight down, into what feels like hell, and not heaven.  We crawled, not walked, down into the gaping hole, scattering pebble from the path and sliding over slimy rocks.  As we made it further inside the hollow, mud was haphazardly streaked across our bottoms and legs as we used all of our body to balance and brace from the forces of gravity in the near pitch blackness.  We enjoyed  a few moments inside the dark and eerie quietness of "heaven" before we were joined by a boisterous group of about 30 students studying tourism at the local university.  I was greeted in several languages as they blinded me with their flashlights and tried to guess what nationality I belonged to.

The incoming as seen from inside the cave.
(Photo copyright of hakanirfan at  @ flickriver.com/photos/hakanirfan)

Then we crawled back out of heaven - never quite finding hell - and not sure if that was perhaps where we had been.  But then we realized, the hell is walking back up those 455 steps!  So that was why the locals called it "Heaven and Hell" but the tourism plaque only mentions the delightful "Heaven Hollow" - sounds much better doesn't it?

After we drove around a bit, we did find a bit of heaven at a quaint restaurant serving gözleme and fresh, frothy ayran with a view overlooking the city and Mediterranean Sea below (and a few ornery and sad camels trying to escape from their shackles).  Yes, I guess every bit of heaven has its dark moments.  A good lesson in life, really.

The sad camels meant to please tourists. 

So now I emerge back from my walk down that sunny, but at times dark and damp, memory lane to winter in the Midwest, USA with enough warmth inside me to keep me fueled during the busy months ahead and with the hope for many more warm, sunny days in Turkey this upcoming summer when we finally get our balayı (honeymoon).

Falling in Love with the Maiden's Tower

The Maiden's Tower or Leander's Tower at sunset.
(Copyright: Hakanirfan @ flickriver.com/photos/hakanirfan)

Just after sunset on the Bosphorus, the Maiden’s Tower glows with light that seems to radiate from the moon. Historically, the Maiden’s Tower was built as a lighthouse to guide Persian ships within the narrow Bosphorus straight. Yet the legends of this Tower come from both Turkish and Greek culture and tell stories of the power and force of love – whether love of a father for his daughter, or love of a man and maiden. Today, we can say that the Maiden’s Tower is a symbol of the hope and light of love, whether to unite societies or unite hearts.

Yes, the Maiden's Tower, or Kız Kulesi in Turkish, inspires romance.  Perhaps it is how the light sends a glimmering path across the water that beckons to travelers and commuters as they whisk by on a night ferry.  Or perhaps the legends enchant us and allow us to see the Maiden's Tower as something abnormal, more than just a simple lighthouse.

The view from the ferry as we passed the Maiden's Tower heading to the wrong neighborhood (by mistake)

 For me, I felt the pull of the Maiden's Tower before knowing the history behind the beacon of light.  Yet, on this past trip to Istanbul, I formed a deeper bond with this cultural monument as I experienced the romance up close and personal as we sat cuddling with blankets on the cushioned concrete steps just across from the Kız Kulesi.  After a warm meal of köfte, we headed out to walk along the water and find the perfect spot to sit and order a tea.  As it was near eight at night with chilling temperatures, there were many seats to choose from.  Although during warmer weather, the steps and tables are full of Istanbulites enjoying a bit of romance with their evening tea.

Not a bad place to have a glass of tea.

 We found a nice spot right across from the Tower and huddled in under the blankets.  Soon we had a hot tea to hold and warm our frosty fingers.  A gypsy woman and young girl passed by with roses in hand, but it seemed that they were done for the night, because we were not offered their wares for sale.  A pair of couples sat at a nearby table, chatting, drinking tea and smoking sweet tobacco in a water pipe.  We watched as the large, dark ships passed by behind the Tower and I wondered what they carried and to whom.

Keeping warm with hot tea and cozy blankets.

 Soon we had emptied our tea glasses and we realized that our time was running out to make it back to the last ferry that would take us to the European side of Istanbul.  So we unfolded from the warm blankets and said goodbye to the Maiden and walked with lighter steps, and warmer hearts and hands back to the ferry.

Romance at its finest - watching boats pass in the night and the city of Istanbul glow in the background.

To visit the Maiden's Tower up close, from the European side of Istanbul take a ferry to Üsküdar, a neighborhood on the Asian side of Istanbul.  From there, walk along the road until you reach the stretch of Bosphorus with outdoor seating in front of the Tower.  There are also many great restaurants in this area, making it a perfect place for a date! 

Getting acquainted with Istanbul

Istanbul and I are not quite friends - it's too early to say that.  We could be considered acquaintances, we've met each other a few times, we've hung out for a couple days.  Istanbul has shown me its best.  It's been hospitable and welcoming, but I've been very cautious while treading around the typical tourist haunts - realizing that this is not the "real" Istanbul that most of the city's inhabitants experience on a daily basis.  I know that Istanbul has many faces and I feel that I have only seen a few of them.

Perhaps I should let go of this scrutinizing nature, but that's me, and in this case, it's also serious business.  You see, I love to be a tourist, but I also question what is propped on display and sold to me for the price of an entrance ticket or pricey photo op.  In the tourism industry, nothing is ever quite what it seems.  Perhaps for this reason I am cautious of Istanbul.  Also, in the near future, Istanbul may be our future home (depending on job opportunities and the like), so I am seriously evaluating this city as a place where I may one day commute to work, grocery shop and, perhaps, raise a family. 

Can I envision living in Istanbul?  While taking a ferry down the Bosphorus, or while strolling down the tram line past nice restaurants and great shops - sure!  While sitting in rush hour traffic in a bus for over an hour, maybe or maybe not.

This was my second time in Istanbul, and it was much more revealing than the first.  While traveling on the bus for about an hour to get into the Sultanahmet area, I felt like I was traveling between two entirely different cities with different cityscapes.  We began in a city block no different from many other city blocks around Turkey - with high rise apartments and the various shops and grocers that occupy the street level.  However, we ended in an area with beautiful two to three story buildings, with the crust of history peaking in between cafes, shops and narrow lanes.  As in many big cities, neighborhoods have entirely different personalities and often there is a large distinction between one and another.  In Istanbul this is perhaps even more pronounced as layers of history are revealed as one travels closer to the water and especially near the Golden Horn. 

An example of a charismatic Istanbul street scene.  By the way, that beautiful building in the center of the photo is a büfe, or a stand selling snacks, cigarettes and other random items - not your typical convenience store.

So what did we do in Istanbul for the 3 short days before we left Turkey?

We enjoyed many stops for simit and cay, and various small treats.  We stopped into shops, looked at books and shopped for gifts to bring home.  We checked out Medusa and enjoyed the subdued atmosphere in the Basilica Cistern.  While also noting one of tourism's silly cultural incongruities - the "Ottoman Harem" photo ops inside the Basilica Cistern.  

A discrete photo of the Harem photo op stage in the Basilica Cistern.

Maybe I'm just reading too much into things - but Basilica Cistern represents Byzantine culture, not Ottoman.  Although, according to the brochure offered inside the Cistern, the Ottomans did use the Cistern water for their gardens at the Topkapı Palace for a short while before they secured their own water system in the city.  Details, details…

We had one of life's funny moments when walking up the path to the Blue Mosque as a couple started screaming in surprise and hugging H.  I figured they were Turkish friends that we happened to cross paths with in Istanbul.  Oh no, the world is much smaller.  These were two old friends from Kansas - yes, Kansas.  What are the chances that we should cross paths in such a way?  I would say probably one in a million - but I'm not that good at statistics.  We spent the rest of the afternoon eating, drinking tea and chatting. 

We got up at 4:30 to head to the airport for our flight, only to find out while attempting to check in that we were one day early…  It's okay, you can laugh, it's funny (although it wasn't at the time).   As I mentioned before, travel does strange things to the brain's time recognition system.

Due to this snafu we had one more day to go visit the Hagia Sophia and take in one of Istanbul's most famous cultural monuments.

The Hagia Sophia is a perfect example of overlapping cultures and civilizations in Istanbul. Some of the Islamic art was removed during restoration to reveal the Christian imagery and art beneath the paint.  The museum is an amazing place to spend a few hours to enjoy beauty and take in the history.

We also walked by the Bosphorus and had street food for our last dinner in Turkey - fish sandwiches, fried dough and salep.

One of the restaurants selling fish from a boat.  You just hop up to the edge, pay for your sandwich and then head to a modest table to enjoy your meal.  You'll see all types of people enjoying a quick bite - businessmen in suits, families with baby strollers, old couples, young couples and of course, tourists like us.

Lokma bought on the street in Istanbul.  Not my favorite, but tasty nonetheless.  

However, for me, the highlight of our time in Istanbul was our visit to the Maiden's Tower, a sight that for us symbolizes the romance of Istanbul.  More on the Maiden's Tower in the next post...

Treats from Turkey

Living in a highly globalized country full of imports from around the globe (I'm talking about the USA), one would think that any desired commodity can be found - if not in stores, then at least online.  While that is partially true, the reality is that while we have access to almost everything, the quality of these commodities are questionable at times.  With Turkish products this is especially true.  We can find Turkish ingredients and treats at the local Mediterranean or International Markets, yet we have been burned many times by overpriced, expired goods that just do not taste right.  Other times, ingredients may seem to be Turkish, but there is some additional flavor added to compliment tastes preferred in Arabic or Persian culture. 

So before traveling to Turkey we brainstormed some of the things we would want to bring back with us, and then while in Turkey that list continued to grow as our taste buds were reminded of the glorious pistachios, fragrant teas, and tantalizing Turkish delights that we had been missing.  So we stuffed our luggage as full as possible with these small Turkish treats to enjoy once back at home.

Locally roasted pistachios from Maras - gifted to H. by his sister 

The perfect Turkish Delight or Lokum

We've already made our way through one box of the pistachio Turkish delights and we're working our way through the second.  These are not your typical Turkish delights, instead of the white powder, they are covered with powdered raw pistachio.  The flavor is rich with just the right amount of sweetness. 

A collection of Koska sweets to give as gifts (or maybe just eat ourselves if we get greedy)

 We've also been enjoying glass after glass of the Turkish herbal tea - like elma (apple) tea and kuşburnu tea, a combination of rosehips and hibiscus that is tart like cranberry juice.  It's the perfect way to keep warm and snuggly without the caffeine of black tea on these cold winter nights.  We love it so much that we found a website where we can order more boxes when we run out. (http://akmarket.com/  This website is also great for ordering all sorts of Turkish food - like cheese, socuk and sweets, even baked goods!)

In order to keep up the alaturka cuisine in the kitchen, I stocked up on some of the most useful spices for Turkish cooking.  Susam (sesame seeds) and Çörek Otu (Cumin seeds) can both be found in the US, but for a pretty penny.  These seeds are essential for a lot of Turkish pastries, such as börek and Turkish scones, and if I get up the gumption, I may try to make simit, Turkish bagels loaded with sesame.  

Collection of Turkish spices

Köfte Baharı is a useful addition to ground beef to make a quick and tasty hamburger or köfte on the grill.  I have fallen in love with the taste of Kuş üzümü (dried currants) in rice pilaf and I'm looking forward to trying out this simple twist sometime soon.  Pul biber (red pepper) is essential for Turkish cuisine and nane (dried mint) was so essential that the package was already in use before I could take this photo.  While I'm sure spices directly from the bazaar would have been the best quality, we opted for the packaged variety for easy transport and ease during customs. 

Now, for some of the fun stuff.  Before our trip there were several things I knew I was going to bring back just because I love them so much.  I was eager to get a Turkish tea glass set, because tea just tastes better in those tulip shaped glasses. Turkish tea glasses can also be found in the US at stores like World Market (where they are sold as shot glasses ????) and international grocery stores.

My new Turkish tea glasses (NOT shot glasses, World Market) 

 After the last trip when I was gifted a beautiful Turkish scarf with oya, handmade flower lace, I planned to buy these scarves to bring back as gifts.  So one Saturday we ventured out in the rain to the local bazaar to find the one lady who sold these beautiful treasures made by a local women's artisan group.  In Turkey, oya scarves are most commonly worn as head scarves.  In Maras, you can see the young and the old wearing these beautiful scarves, yet it is becoming less common that the young generation will wear such a traditional scarf.  I like to wear them around my neck in a variety of different styles.  I love the lightness of the fabric and how soft it feels.  I often find myself admiring the small lace flowers and wondering how they could possibly be made by hand - a true Turkish treasure.

Two examples of oya lace

While the selection is much better in Turkey, these scarves can be accessed in the US also.  Just a visit to Etsy (a handmade and vintage online community of stores) and search for "oya" will return hundreds of examples.  Many are created with Western appeal in mind, and others state that they are straight from a bridal chest and never worn (which I find quite sad).  Yes, the oya scarves and the bridal chest have an important role in Turkish wedding traditions, so perhaps it's best I save this topic for a different blog post.

Here are a few of the oya scarves that I picked up.

I chose a few of the darker ones as these will be gifts for older relatives of mine, but there were many different options in all the colors of the rainbow.  I might have to stuff my suitcase with more on the next trip.

Back from Turkey and a sampling of what is to come

It feels like ages since we dragged our overweight luggage into my dark and musty apartment at 11:30 last Wednesday night.  Perhaps because I have been operating at full speed to get my life back to normal these first few days - doing loads of laundry, decluttering the mess I caused when my suitcase exploded all over the living room floor, and deep cleaning my apartment to get ready for a new semester, as well as visiting my parents, catching up with friends over email and beginning to make appearances back in my school/work life. 

It also seems like I stepped into another world, it's my world, but not the one that I had been occupying for the last month.  I miss H.'s family and relatives and all those long afternoons and dinners spent chatting over plates and plates of food and Turkish tea.  I miss the feeling of being in Turkey, with the confusing traffic, bustling streets, and calming ezan.  But in about four to five months we will be back for our wedding, so for now I'll enjoy the bittersweet feeling of missing all of that and get ready to savor more of Turkey on our next trip.

A month long vacation is a strange thing.  It is wonderful in all respects, especially when visiting lovely relatives in Turkey, but it causes a time recognition problem in the brain.  For me it was hard to tell if that trip was really just one month, when sometimes it felt like two months, or two weeks.  Time dripped by on the days when we had nothing planned and sat lazily watching Turkish documentaries and drinking coffee and tea all day.  Then time zipped by while we raced to beat rush hour traffic to do some shopping in the city and then raced to a relative's house for dinner and then before we knew it hours had passed and we were back at home with full bellies and nodding off to sleep. 

I had planned many things for this trip, because for me, one month seems like a very long time.  I had expected to study Turkish everyday, read many books, write a blog post every other day and get one chapter of my dissertation worked up (ha!).  Lady life smirked and gave me a loving, yet sarcastic pat on the pack and taught me once again that my plans are child's play and I need to get over my naivety.  I learned that it is not wise to make too many goals, but instead to keep it simple so that I can enjoy the feeling of accomplishing something and not the constant disappointment from trying to overachieve.  I'll keep that in mind for the future.

However, I can say that we (jointly) accomplished several of our major goals for this trip: we spent lots of time with family and H.'s friends, we made our plans for our Turkish wedding, and we took care of necessary heath visits.

For me, I gathered lots of writing material that I am currently processing into blog posts that I hope to get on here in the next couple weeks.  Here is a sampling of what you can expect:

1.  I'll explain some of the Turkish treats we brought back with us - the things we can't live without and which ones can be found here in the US.

2. While I didn't formally study Turkish everyday on my trip, I was working on it through speaking and trying to understand all going on around me.  I think I improved!  Now, how will I keep up this momentum?  I plan to write a post about a couple items I picked up in Turkey, as well as some media available in the US to keep me moving forward to achieve my language learning goal.

3. Updates on our Turkish wedding - was it as easy to plan as I had hoped?  Also, my experience and some research on what it means to be a "gelin" or bride in Turkey.

4. We stopped in Istanbul for a few days before leaving Turkey and visited a few tourist spots.  I'll share a few impressions and perhaps a new way to experience the Maiden's Tower.

5. Have you ever heard of Kahramanmaraş?  I would say that many haven't.  I'll give a little background about the city and what may inspire you to come visit.

The city of Maras at night from one of the best spots to visit when in town 

6. To continue on the Maraş theme -  Maraş Dondurması or Ice cream: perhaps the number one reason to visit this town for tourists and it's no gimmick.

7. Turkish Chip or Tarhana (the Maraş version): what are these tasty chips I mentioned before and how are they made?

8. Outsourcing Dinner - a phenomenon in Turkey (or perhaps Maraş) that I wish we had in the US

Well I said a sampling, so I should stop there.  These posts could keep me busy for the next month.  There is more in the works, but I don't want to over-promise. 

So stay tuned…I'll be back shortly!

The Dessert Dance

Navigating Turkish meals is still something fairly new to me, but especially on this trip I'm becoming more cultured to the proper ways to respond to the invitations to eat the mountains of food presented to me.  For those that have not had the glorious experience of eating a home-cooked Turkish meal, I'll give you a little background information.  Meals are not lighting quick events, although they can be somewhat hectic with so many offers to eat this or drink that being thrown around from one person to another.  Turkish meals take a lot of time to prepare, accordingly each course is properly savored before moving on to the next.

A first course - Manti or Turkish Ravioli in a yogurt sauce
(Source: Turklish)

 Usually dinner begins with soup and bread, but the whole meal is already on the table complete with mezes, such as cold salads, vegetables cooked in lots of olive oil, pickles and pide bread.  The main course is usually some type of rice pilaf with cooked meat and vegetables.  There may also be many types of small dishes served such as lahmacun or içli köfte.   There are of course many variations to Turkish meals, below you can see a few examples of the types of food we have eaten at invited dinners here in Turkey.

Table is set with mezes and salad before the lamb shanks arrived.
(Source: Turklish)

One of my favorite dishes - rice with chicken and roasted almonds - simple yet oh so delicious.
(Source: Turklish)

Several varieties of dolma - stuffed mini squash, eggplant and red peppers. Also sarma, or stuffed grape leaves. Yumm!
(Source: Turklish)

Homemade içli köfte - meat, nut, sauce mixture inside a bulgur dough.  These were made by hand by several different ladies, each with a different içli köfte style, hence the variation in shape.
(Source: Turklish)

After navigating a Turkish meal - not eating too much, but savoring all the different flavors on the table - you may think that you are home free with just a small tea and dessert to follow.  After all, dessert is the perfect finale to every meal.  However, beware, in Turkey dessert is a whole new event.

After retiring from the dinner table to a comfy couch, first comes the coffee and tea.  This is to help digest that big meal and keep you awake for the next round.  Coffee is served with chocolate.  Then glass after glass of tea is served, sometimes with a salty or sweet scone or cookie.  Meanwhile dinner dishes are cleaned, and dessert trays are prepared.

A variety of sweets to accompany tea.
(Source: Turklish)

The table is reset with plates and silverware.  All return to their seats to the splendid array of fruits, nuts, and whatever main dessert was prepared, such as baklava, sütlaç, or even a chocolate cake.  Also, in Maras, Turkish chips or tarhana (Maraş style - another post to come soon about tarhana) is always center stage on the dessert table. 

A typical table set for dessert - many different types of fruit, nuts, two varieties of prepared dessert - cooked pumpkin and a coconut pudding.
(Source: Turklish)

This is where the dessert dance comes to play.  At this point it may be late in the night, as everyone spent several hours chatting with tea after dinner.  Everyone is full, no one really is physically hungry, but there may be a desire for something sweet to finish the meal.  I start slowly, sampling  a few pistachios or almonds.  However, if I do not take enough I am always encouraged to take more.

"Eat this orange; it is delicious."  I'm instructed by the host as the orange is put on my plate. 

I nod my head, smile and put the orange to the side as three huge pieces of baklava are put on my plate.

 I smile and murmur a "teşekkür ederim". 

Now I begin to slowly eat the baklava and I keep my eyes alert to quick movements to put anything else on my plate.  

Soon a hand swoops in with more nuts.

"Oh, no thank you, I've had enough."  I say as I shield my plate with my hands.

"Just eat a little."  I'm encouraged with eyes pleading.

I give in.  "Okay just a few." 

"Here is some more baklava."  As a spatula gracefully slides in towards my plate.

"No I can't!"  I squeal, barely able to finish the pieces I already have.

"Okay,  how about a banana."  As the banana is cut in half and peeled.

"No, please, I already had an apple, and I have this orange here on my plate."  I say to no avail as the peeled banana is already in my hand and halfway to my mouth.

Another hand reaches and grabs a few slabs of tarhana and gestures for me to take them.

"Thank you, thank you, I have enough, I'll take a few in a little bit."

This energy is not only directed at me, but at all the guests around the table.  All are encouraged to eat more and there are many helping hands to ensure that no plate is left empty and that plenty of fruit is peeled and sliced so that everyone can try all the different kinds. 

A typical serving of dessert - not baklava but similar with nuts inside and a thin dough soaked in sweet syrup. As always pistachios sprinkled on top complete the sweet.
(Source: Turklish)

Tarhana or Turkish chips Maraş style
(Source: Turklish)

I often find it downright hilarious and begin giggling as an orange is passed from one person to the next and as protesting guests shield their plates from the downpour of pistachios and hazelnuts. 

I call it a dance because it requires grace and coordination to sidestep all the offered treats.  While the nuts, fruit, tarhana and dessert are all delicious, for me it is all too much.  After that big meal I simply can't eat all the dessert options.  However, with time I am getting better at this desert dance and learning to eat my fill while pleasing the host and avoiding midnight stomachaches.